Travel

Treat Cotopaxi with respect or slide back down

Thu, 11 Dec 2008 13:12:01 +0000

“I thought bodyguards were meant to be big and tough.”
“This is my disguise.”

Those lines from The Bodyguard were running through my head at 4 in the morning high on the face of Cotopaxi. The slope of the volcano in front of me was 1 in 1, 45 degrees, the snow was blowing in my face, my calves were burning, my eyes flickering and my stomach turning.

It had all been so easy an hour before. Walking in the moonlight across the snow carpet of the volcano. I could have taken a date up there. It was beautiful, relaxing. Turning around to see the twinkling lights of Quito, I thought of the clubbers getting drunk on a Friday night. That is where I would normally be. But I was 5000 metres above sea level under the wing of a volcano and making my way to the summit.

I had been warned by everyone that Cotopaxi was a hard climb. I had been interrogated about the training I had done to cope with the magnitude of the task but I simply shrugged my shoulders. “I’m 24 and in fairly good shape. I should be fine.” The answer of course was, “None.” I had given Cotopaxi no respect in the build up to the climb, citing my experiences in the Ecuadorian Andes around Lataunga and Quilatoa a few months before. They had been ‘hard’ but I had done three solid days of hiking uphill there without any training. And I thought that was good enough.

Cotopaxi is the highest active volcano in the world, 5897 metres above sea-level, half the cruising altitude of a 747 jet. To put it another way it’s over three and a half miles up and covers an area greater than the size of Quito. The snow-topped summit melts during the daytime meaning there are frequent avalanches during the afternoon. Daytime climbing is an impossibility. Cotopaxi summit is, therefore, a night expedition and groups need to reach the top no later than 6 or 7 am.
Our group was told to rise at 10pm to give us time to hike the 1000 metres from the refuge. At 24 it is not uncommon to going out around this time, so after a couple of hours bad sleep I was perky enough without much complaint.

The gear is like a space suit. There is two of everything to ensure you don’t freeze to death up there. Two pairs of socks, two pairs of trousers, two pairs of gloves, two t-shirts, two fleeces, two jackets and two hats. This all tells you something: you are about to go through hell. But there’s an excitement in that. My vocabulary also expanded by a few technical words — crampons, removable spikes for your hiking boots; gaiters, a pair of garment to protect your ankles and lower legs from the abrasion of the snow; Gore-Tex socks, waterproof socks; and a fleece cap, a balaclava that covers your head leaving a slit for the eyes.

The base of Cotopaxi is like the surface of the moon, the rocks nestled in fine sand. If your skin is exposed to the air, the frost starts to bite. At around midnight, there we were, a group of eight people and four guides, able to see a few yards in front of us and fractionally more with headlamps. Nevertheless, we were up for it and felt prepared. We marched in single file for an hour before reaching the snow. I was already sweating but saw it as a wearing-in stage of the walk.

The snow gave me a lift. It was the first time I had ever experienced it in Ecuador and it was a sign that progress was being made. It also brought out the serious kit. Harnesses, ropes, gaiters and crampons, out of our rucksacks and on to our legs and boots. If I looked up the mountain, I had to arch my head so far that it touched my back. There, flickering across the mountainside, were spots of light coming from the headtorches of the smaller groups of four climbers, already making their way to the summit.

It was then that I started to feel good. My legs were working beneath me, one steady pace after another, the angle wasn’t too steep and Quito did look quite incredible. My photographer, Joe Tivey, even said, “Getting there, boys,” as we continued the march. Everything was on for reaching the summit. It didn’t matter we hadn’t trained; our youth would pull us through. It didn’t feel like 2am, it wasn’t dark, wasn’t cold and I even turned off my headlight. This was perfect.

As the next hour passed, however, everything deteriorated. The blotted lights that I thought look so beautiful an hour ago started to move further and further away. I was taking far too many breaks. The altitude was beginning to kick in and I couldn’t preserve my energy. I was using the ice pick nonchalantly pushing it forward into the snow, not taking controlled footsteps as instructed and breathing more and more heavily as a result. The oxygen was so thin and was only getting thinner.

The next issue to deal with was mental tiredness. Yes I was struggling with the muscles seizing up but I began to notice my eyes flutter like a student trying to finish an assignment due in the next morning. I started to become inpatient with myself and with other people around me. I was floundering.

The weather suddenly took a turn for the worse, the slope became radically steeper and before I knew it I was in pitch black only lit up by our own four bulbs as if in a tent. “Give it five more minutes,” I said to Joe.
“That’s what you said five minutes ago and look at how far that got us.”
He was right we had moved six vertical feet but I still searched for hope.
“How much longer is it this steep?” I said to the guide.
“At least an hour and a half,” the guide said.
“Are we over half way?” As the wind had picked up, my voice barely travelled the five yards to the guide.
“About two hours to half way.”
It was the moment I had to pull the plug. There wasn’t even a chance now and my stomach started to turn. I had no energy left even to stand and I slid down on my bottom. Whenever there was a pause, I put my head on my arm and closed my eyes on the verge of sleep. But then carried on. I was beaten by the physical challenge and by the mental one too. I wasn’t ready to do this.

Down at the refuge, at about 6.30 am, I was left to ponder the night. It felt like the morning after the Titanic had sunk. I watched as the climbers that had made it to the top came back with smiles on their faces. They had achieved what they had come here to do.
I interviewed them as they came home. An Icelandic couple in their forties revealed the extent of their training.
“We’ve been walking hills and mountains for a year now to be ready for this,” they said.
It was a sharp lesson. I had been too casual for Cotopaxi and it had spat me out like one of the massive boulders, which lay scattered around me which the volcano had effortlessly chucked here when it last erupted 120 years ago.
I had been deceived by its beauty, by how close the summit had looked, by the figure that it was ‘only 1000m’ climb from the refuge. I had expected to turn up and be able to summit it. Next time I won’t be so blind.

Chone opens its door to a new world

Mon, 3 Nov 2008 18:12:30 +0000

Travelling through the unexplored cloud forests that stretch across much of the Chone cantone of Ecuador's Manabi province, it's often easy to forget the sweeping vistas just beyond the dense green canopy. After several skyless hours spent cresting a single apex in Chone's endless sea of lush mountains and valleys, the tree line crashes open revealing impossibly resplendent landscapes stretching to the horizon in every direction. Sunset on the mountain bathes the countryside in rich greens, yellows and oranges that are almost too vivid for words.
For the off-the-beaten path tourist in Ecuador, there are few outdoor attractions more enticing than Chone (pronounced "CHO-nay") for eco-tourism and exploration. Within a year, trails of varying lengths and difficulty will be carved out across the region leading to an inexhaustible supply of caves, waterfalls, naturally occurring fruits in countless varieties and untold other natural beauty. For now, though, unique experiences are open to adventurous travellers looking to venture through trails so unexplored that they might be the first to set foot on them.

Take note that while Chone's local tourism department is very much in favour of travellers coming in to assist with trailblasing, such experiences do come with an implied air of danger and uncertainty. It's not uncommon to hang precariously from loose vines along a fairly steep incline with insecure footing steadily disintegrating minute by minute while the expedition leaders -- generally local hunters or mountain farmers -- argue over which seemingly impossible path upwards is the most feasible. Machete novices may find their skills greatly improved after a weekend in the mountains above Ricaurte.
One of the greatest marks against Chone's undeveloped tourism industry is a shortage of proper travel lodging for travellers, its few hostels existing more for locals looking for short term tryst lodging than for proper traveller accommodation. To counter this, the tourism department has arranged for a selection of homestays on local farms, giving visitors an uncommon glimpse into farm life in 21st century Ecuador. Vast, vibrant dairy farms -- Chone boasts a 2:1 ratio of cows to humans across the entire region and is known nationally for its cattle supply -- stretch across the province, many willing to take on guests, hopeful at the chance of sharing the traditional Ecuadorian way of life with visiting outsiders.
Vast stretches of bananas, plantains, oranges and countless other fruits are literally ripe for the picking. Perhaps the most famous crop is the cacao, a recently built processing yard that handles the cultivation and mass fermentation of perhaps the world's most famous sweet. The plant doubles as an attraction for tourists, curious in the preparation process of cacaos, and the brown field of drying beans laid out in the sun is a sight -- and smell -- to behold.
Something as seminal a farm activity as milking a cow, long replaced by cold, mechanical efficiency in many countries, is still carried out quite traditionally every morning throughout the region. Waking at dawn to stumble out into a dark potrero, or cow field, while the field hands perform a brief, pantomimed lesson in udder handling, only to help fill a large tin milk pail with the help of a mostly disinterested cow is an experience like no other.

Directly carried into the homestead, the milk is transformed into a variety of dairy goods, from fresh cheese and butter, ready later in the day in time for dinner, to creamy manjar. Mixed with sugar and various sweet ingredients, manjar is a sweet local tradition made in chocolate and caramel varieties and sold in local markets. The food throughout the Manabi region has widely been considered among the best in Ecuador, and alone well worth the trip. Thick, creamy corn soups, often with tuna or the more locally popular fish chame, are widely available. And tonga, a mixture of chicken, plantains, rice and spices, wrapped in leaves and left to stew inside a backpack during a particularly exhausting climb, might be the greatest trail food ever conceived.
Driven by an almost unbridled hospitality from the locals and a passionate willingness to share of its rich culture, foods and natural beauty, Chone truly is a treat for tourists looking to feel a little bit less like a turista. Spend a few days taking it all in, and the Chone experience is not likely to be forgotten any time soon.
For information on activities and lodging in Chone, please contact:
Luis Andrade
Chone Office of Tourism
094282340
luisandrade70@hotmail.com

The Andes’ great discovery

Wed, 1 Oct 2008 17:58:44 +0100

The railroad tracks that run on the outskirts of Otavalo fell silent long ago but they still serve as a path that winds through scenic country and small indigenous communities. A pleasant 40 minute stroll along the tracks brings you to a congregation of buildings marking the first station on the line. Joseph Tivey alights to explore the Hostel Aya Huma and the unique activities it has to offer.Saturday’s evening meals are followed by lively colourful entertainment from members of the Peguche community showcasing their traditional music, dance and costume.

The highlight of the evening is provided by the voices of the younger generation as they proudly wear the vibrant Aya Huma ‘Spirited Head’ masks. Traditionally the wearer of this mask had cart Blanc wherever they may be. On this evening however the children are very well behaved.The emphasis on tradition is continued throughout all of the rooms with no compromise on comfort. Colourful fabrics hang over the windows casting a kaleidoscopic light during the afternoon and soft cosy bedding welcomes your return in the evening after a busy day of physical or spiritual exercise.

As well as tranquil surroundings and comfortable accommodation Hostel Aya Huma offers a range of spiritual experiences ranging from far eastern Rahki and Lomi Lomi to the more Latin American ceremony of Tamaskal - ‘The Cabin to Sweat’. Originating in Mexico, this sauna for the spirit is a means by which one can be healed and purified through a combination of heat and aromatic plants and herbs.The preparation for the ceremony begins early in the day with the heating of volcanic stones and collection of the plants. As soon as all of the participants are gathered it is time for the ceremony to begin. Stripped down to the bare essential items of clothing men and women are separated and asked to clarify for what purposes they are entering the Tamaskal. As this is contemplated the head of the ceremony, the spiritual leader encourages each participant to inhale a fragrant powder to enhance the experience. The dome shaped lodge, which symbolises the womb of mother earth, can only be entered when every member of the ceremony has passed the fire, symbolising masculinity, and a small tree, symbolising life.

Once inside men and women are seated across from each other, the red hot stones are placed in between and all entrances are covered plunging the dome into complete darkness. Chants and rhythmic drumming begin as the temperature and your own senses are elevated to an intense level. All concept of time is lost until the covers over the entrance are lifted to allow in light, a sip of water, welcome fresh air and more red hot stones. This process is repeated a further three times to honour the elements of earth, wind, fire and water with the temperature rising for each round. Following the ceremony a welcome shower of cold water and if you so chose, a patting down with nettles, reinvigorates and brings you back round from the spiritual awakening. The purpose of this ceremony is to relieve any physical or mental burdens one may have and there is most definitely a sense of relief upon emerging from the tamaskal.

Coco Loco Hostel

Thu, 4 Sep 2008 18:32:19 +0100

Perched at the end of Ecuador’s longest beach, Canoa is a bolt hole for Ecuadorians and foreigners alike who flock to the tiny fishing village in search of sun, sand and surf all year round. Less rowdy than the more popular Montañita and Atacames resorts, Canoa caters for both sun worshippers and the more active traveller. Stretching for over 17km, the thin strip of sand between the Pacific and the Ecuadorian coastal lands is bookended by steep sandstone cliffs teeming with wildlife and blessed with regular surf and sun. The village of Canoa is nestled at the northern tip of this stretch of sand, home to countless fishing boats and even more surfers.

Many an hour can be lost simply chilling in a hammock in one of the many small bars on the beach itself, watching the local fishermen go about their daily business whilst surfers walk back and forth between the water and the strip of hostels along the sand. The days often start off cloudy but by midday the sun burns through hot and strong and the sleepy village stirs from its slumber, with people streaming around on bikes, horses, boats and surfboards.
It’s no surprise then that Elizabeth Stark, with her Mexican husband Mauricio, upped sticks and left the cold of Alaska for Canoa, where they bought the Coco Loco hostel. Sitting right on the beach front and away from the noise of the main strip, Coco Loco is a great base for spending time in Canoa. Dorm beds are only $5 a night and the palm frond roof may keep out the elements but it’s useless at blocking out the sound of the Pacific Ocean, which is no bad thing when it lulls you to sleep at night and is the first thing you hear in the morning. Hammocks and palm trees are everywhere and it’s easy to fall asleep with a beer and a book in your hand, especially when beers are only $1. If the lazing about gets too much to handle then the hostel offer many different activities, including fishing, surf lessons and horse riding.

Don’t expect to have an easy ride during a fishing trip. An early start involves helping the fishermen manoeuvre the boat into the water and it seems the skipper tries his hardest to capsize the craft as it lurches over and through the breakers, all in the name of a brief adrenaline rush to accompany the wicked grin on his face. Out at sea the throttle is opened and the boat skims over the water, often briefly racing other fishermen as you head up the coast. After an hour or so the nets are cast and the fishing rods unveiled to try and catch your own lunch. Catches can be hit and miss, but if all else fails there are a number of settlements along the coast where you can cheat and buy a bucket of fresh fish for next to nothing. Once the fish is caught or bought, the skipper will land at a secluded beach and crack out the barbeque for an unforgettable experience.

If you want to give the old biceps a bit of exercise then Coco Loco also run surfing lessons, where a local surf kid will take you into the water and show you the basics. The wind swept surf varies from gentle breaks ideal for beginners, to absolute monsters, all that is required is a little patience. Horse lovers can also journey down the beach, on an overnight trip to the Organic Shrimp Farm at Rio Muchacho and for the more daring, paragliding is available from the cliff tops around Canoa, weather permitting.

Come night time Canoa livens up and many of the bars along the beach front time their happy hours one after the other, so inebriation can easily be embraced. During the week it’s rather quiet but at the weekend things pick up. Most of the locals and travellers head to Mambo and Surf Shack for cheap drinks and loud music, with barely a whisper of reggaeton, whilst beach bonfires and fireworks are a regular event once the hubbub at the bars dies down.

Life in Canoa is like the tide itself, ebbing and flowing, going from quiet and relaxed to party central at the weekends and it’s easy enough to switch between the two. Whether you want a quiet few days by the coast or a small but intimate adrenaline fuelled party, Coco Loco and Canoa has it all.

Hostel details:
Dorm rooms - $5
Private rooms with bathrooms - $16-20
Fishing - $40 per person, max group of four
Overnight trip to Rio Muchacho - $50
Surfboards - $4 per hour, lessons $10

The Puerto Lopez life

Fri, 22 Aug 2008 19:19:52 +0100

The town of Puerto Lopez is primarily a fishing village and an entry point into Parque Machallia. In the whale-watching season of June to September about 90% of the town is involved directly or indirectly with tourism. Although there are many tour operators offering trips to see wildlife or do a variety of water sports, a quick walk around makes it clear that Puerto Lopez has not been over run and still has a local, Ecuadorian feel. Kathleen Prevost takes a photographic look at the tranquil town and some of the quiet delights it has to offer.

In the mornings the south end of the beach is crowded with fisherman bringing in their catch and sorting out what goes where. Tourists love the fresh fare, and most of what gets caught ends up in restaurants here during the high season. In the other months, fish, shrimp and lobster are sent to the larger markets of Guayaquil and Salinas.

Entrepreneurial young boys greet tourists as they come back from trips to Isla de la Plata or scouting for whales. The boys hope to make a few cents washing sandy feet. Trips usually leave in the mornings around 9 or 10. Agencies abound and often work together combining passengers to fill up their boats.

The beach of Puerto Lopez is often empty during the high season of June through September, since the weather is cool and overcast. During this time, occasionally whales swim so close to shore they can be spotted from the beach. Every so often the clouds clear up in the evenings treating the town to spectacular sunsets.

The town is very walkable, but those in a hurry or with a lot to carry can hop on small open taxis that will go just about anywhere for a dollar. In the evenings, hundreds of birds chose a small section of telephone wires to hang out and socialize. Safe streets mean that tourists often join them for a slow night along the waterfront.

Peaceful, lazy nights are easy to be had. There are several small stands along the beachfront offering fresh juices for a dollar and fresh juice-based cocktails for three. Patrons can choose to face the street and people watch or hang out on the other side and listen to the waves.

One of the tastiest seafood dishes around is ceviche, and can be found in almost every restaurant in Puerto Lopez. Chunks of fish, shrimp, shellfish and calamari are marinated in a mixture of lime, onion, tomato and cilantro to create a refreshing cold meal that is often served with popcorn.

The world of whales

Fri, 22 Aug 2008 19:14:24 +0100

If you are traveling through Ecuador in the next few months, you are in luck. June through September is mating season for humpback whales, and Ecuador’s Parque Machallia is the best place along South America’s pacific coast to catch a glimpse of this endangered species in action. Whales are literally out of the water and bending over backwards in hopes of getting some female attention. Other animals like blue-footed boobies and frigatebirds are also pairing up. Those who can’t make it out to the Galapagos are easily able to visit this national park and see many of the same magnificent species found on the famous islands.

Humpback whales have always migrated up to Ecuador from the South Pole. However in recent years the whale watching has gotten even better. Angel Pincay Quiroz has been working with whales as a guide for 16 years and said, “The El Niño phenomenon in 1997 affected a lot of things, bringing the whales closer to the coast and now more people come to see them. The tourism has been very strong for about 6 years now, and it is still increasing.” Each year in June, at the beginning of mating season, the town of Puerto Lopez has a festival to celebrate the whale and its migration to Ecuador.

The whales have the longest mammalian migration on earth (birds beat them). Each year they travel over 8000 km from their feeding grounds at the artic poles to warmer waters where they mate and give birth. In order to attract mates and scare off competition, male humpback whales show off by jumping out of the water in spectacular displays. Whales also breach as a way of defense from sharks and orcas. These quick carnivores will swim up and take bites out of the whales and whales use their impressive jumping abilities to intimidate attackers or even land on them if lucky. These whales are also known for their “songs” and they make the most complex vocalizations of the animal kingdom.

Because they predictably return to coastal waters, humpback whales have been hunted fairly easily and have been considered endangered since the US Endangered Species List was created in the 70s. Despite their endangered status and an international ban on commercial whaling, humpbacks continue to be threatened and are killed for their meat, oil and bone and are sold on the lucrative Asian fish markets. In Japan, whale meat can go for $100 per pound. Fortunately, the populations of humpback whales have increased slightly over the past several years, in part because countries have been switching from whaling to whale watching.

In order to encourage this eco-friendly and profitable industry of whale watching, Angel Pincay is also the coordinator of a volunteer program in Machallia, the small town inside the national park. For the first time this summer, the town will be housing groups of university students who will come to collect whale data and teach town residents about environmental issues. “The idea is to introduce the town to commercial tourism. Right now they are focused on artisan fishing, but during the whale season they cannot fish,” said Picay. Fishing is dangerous when whales are around since they can get tangled up in nets, which threatens the whales as well as the boats. The program, run through International Student Volunteers, Inc. aims to create an environmentally aware approach to tourism over the next few years.

Parque Machallia is Ecuador’s only coastal natural park. While is it most visited for the island Isla de la Plata, the park extends considerably inward, protecting tens of thousands of miles of dry tropical forest. This type of forest is unique because it experiences two extreme seasons, the dry and the wet. From December to May, the park receives sun and rain and very quickly turns into a carpet of green plant life. Species have become highly adapted to the extreme conditions, and have various techniques to use water efficiently when it rains as well as conserve water during the 6 months of dry season. Travelers to the park can expect plant life that is unique and unfamiliar, resembling a dry desert ecosystem in places over the next few months. Opportunities for hiking, camping, and horseback riding through the park are offered. Especially interesting are longer hikes where one can walk through the dry tropical forest and into the cloud forest, observing the gradual change in weather and plant life.

Those interested in birds should not miss a chance to tour Isla de la Plata (Silver Island), part of the national park, and a 90-minute boat ride from Puerto Lopez. The island is often called by another name “Poor Man’s Galapagos” because for about $50 one gets up close and personal with blue-footed boobies and several other animals seen on the Galapagos Islands. August is an excellent time to visit the island since is it also the mating season for many of the bird species, which migrate from other parts of the island to the area where there are the two walking paths for tourists. Indeed, nesting birds often find the cleared paths the best place to watch their eggs and visitors have the treat of coming within feet of the birds, who stare with a mixture of annoyance and acceptance, but rarely fly away. Here the entertaining courting ritual of blue-footed boobies can be seen, as well as the massive red ballooning throats of frigatebirds looking for mates. Such natural delights are not always seen on the Galapagos Islands and often the birds there have to be observed from a much greater distance.

The opportunity of watching these birds and seeing whales get their entire bodies out of the water is well worth a trip to Parque Machallia. While the quality of sightings are in part a matter of luck (no one can tell whales where to be and when to jump) this month is an excellent time to visit the park and sightings are practically guaranteed. Don’t miss the chance to experience one of the few corners of the world where the wildlife puts on an excellent show and doesn’t mind humans hanging around to watch.

The Jungle at dusk

Mon, 4 Aug 2008 20:01:41 +0100

The Reserva produccion faunistica Cyabeno is a unique flooded rain forest reserve covering 6034 sq km. The forest provides a spectacular home to diverse aquatic species and bird life such as pink Dolphins and several varieties of Kingfisher. The reserve was created in 1979 to preserve the diverse eco-system and the indigenous inhabitants of the area. The influx of oil companies during the mid to late 80’s led to at least 6 oil spills that entered the Rio Cuyabeno, contaminating the reserve. Finally, in late 1991 the borders of the reserve were shifted and enlarged stopping the exploitation of protected areas.

A perfect mirror for a beautiful sunset, until the dry season during the months of December January and February when this lagoon and many other bodies of water almost completely disappear. A visit to the jungle during these dry months means an increased chance of spotting a variety of birds and insects. However, it does become difficult to visit areas that are only accessible by boat.

A staple food in the diet of many of the indigenous peoples in the jungle- The root of the yucca similar to the potato. Here a young girl prepares the bread by grating the washed root which is then wrung dry and cooked on a metal disc over an open fire. The flat bread is then served with chilli paste or salt and lime. Preparation of the bread is an important coming of age process that once mastered means a girl is ready to marry.

The spiritual figure head of the community is known as the Shaman. Draped in beads and jaguar teeth that are over 90 years old and in dress that traditionally was made of woven strands of bark this shaman was born into his community and learnt from his father, a shaman before him. He acts as a both community doctor and religious leader. In order to perform this role he consumes a hallucinogen produced by boiling the leaves of a local plant. The mind expanding affects of this natural narcotic allow the Shaman to diagnose illness and become one with the world around him.

A basic rod, a chunk of meat, and a great deal of patience are all that are required to catch one of these beasties. There are many varieties that lurk in the shadows of the Amazon waterside, some of which can grow up to 40 cm’s in length. A successful catch rewards a taste sensation surprisingly similar to that of grilled chicken!

Siona and Sikoya, two of the largest tribes that still exist within the reserve were at one time at conflict. This attitude has since improved as the new generation choose to move away from the tribal cultures in order to make money by working for one of the many oil companies within the region. However, conflicts of interest still exist-one tribe embraces the oil companies and their gifts of motor boats and solar panels. The other sees the destruction being caused to their environment by the quest for more oil reserves.

Agencies in Quito offer guided tours with very informative local guides. The tour lodges ,are often situated on the banks of the Rio Cuyabeno and offer great service, food, hot showers, mosquito nets, and of course a comfortable bed!

Climbing days are here

Thu, 3 Jul 2008 14:30:59 +0100

Staring at Cotopaxi on a clear day, it’s hard not to feel the draw of Ecuador’s compelling mountains. Their beauty and the desire to be among them have changed little since Whymper, the famous British Mountaineer, first stepped onto the glaciers here in 1880.

EASY CLIMBS

Ecuadorian mountains offer a great opportunity to climb high. Most mountains are not technically difficult, conditions are usually good and access to them easy. Guided trips are readily available. This has led some to claim that Ecuador’s mountains are “easy ascents”. Maybe, but be prepared. You should be reasonably fit, and willing to take time acclimatizing.

ACCLIMATIZATION

In 2001, I came across a man at the refuge on Cotopaxi at 6 a.m. His face was ashen grey. I called out in English and got no reply. I shouted in Spanish - still no reply. I thought he was dead. It turned out he had arrived from Germany two days previoulsy. An attempt on the summit had produced only copious amounts of vomit.

Altitude respects no one and commands respect. There is no short cut to getting acclimatized. Lack of preparation causes more failed summit bids than anything else.

Acclimatizing properly, takes time. Eat lightly, drink plenty of water. Don’t drink alcohol Increase the height you climb each day and allow rest days in between. As you climb, pay attention to your breathing. If it’s too labored, SLOW down! Don’t be afraid to back off and return another day. Drugs like Diamox mask the early signs of altitude sickness, leaving you less time to walk down and out of trouble

EQUIPMENT

If you are heading up a glacier, you will need an ice axe, crampons, plastic boots, a harness, warm clothing, hat, good gloves, water proof jacket and pants, 1 ½ liters of water and some high energy food. Take sun glasses and sun cream (inside your jacket to prevent freezing) for the descent.

The most important thing about your gear is that it works and you know how to use it. If you are renting, check that crampons are a good tight fit. Plastic double boots do not expand. If they don’t fit in the shop, they will be hell on the mountain.

SKILLS

You should be able to self arrest with an ice axe and feel comfortable walking in crampons. You should know how to move as part of a rope team. The rope stops the lead man from falling too far into a crevasse.

Do not carry coils of rope in your hand. If you think you can hold your buddy using this method, try this simple test. Tie your buddy onto the rope. Take 4-5 coils in you hand. Invite your trusting friend to jump out the window. As you survey the rope burn on your hand and contemplate your share of your friend’s hospital bill, remind yourself that you will never carry coils.

CHOOSING A GUIDE

Any good guide or guiding company should be more concerned about your welfare than your money. Beware of claims that guarantee success. Use the details in this article and the reference books to ask questions. Check what training they provide. Some companies in Quito offer 3-4 day glacier training schools.

MORE INFORMATION

Ecuador a Climbing Guide by the much missed Yossi Brain and Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador by Rob Rachowiecki are both good sources of information. Cotopaxi, La Montana de Luz (Spanish only) by Freddy Landazuri is great for Cotopaxi.

Written by Robin Shackell, Director of Specialised Adventure Travel. www.SpecialisedAdventure.com . Robin spent 4 ½ years living in Quito qualified as a mountain leader in 1999. Contact him at robin@SpecialisedAdventure.com

The Coastal Bus

Thu, 3 Jul 2008 14:04:42 +0100

Imagine beautiful coastal scenery, awe inspiring landscapes and open windows accompanied with a salsa soundtrack; then team this with deep pot holed roads, 1970's tin toaster like buses prone to spontaneous combustion and a seemingly sporadic timetable and you have all the fun of a theme park ride cleverly disguised as the Ruta Del Sol.
Being a gringa in Ecuador is at its most useful in bus stations on the coast. Laden with bags and surrounded by multi colored buses, seemingly with no destination signs, it's only natural that your eyes glaze over and you adopt a rabbit in the headlights expression. Have no fear, like sharks to fresh blood, the employees of the buses or local people looking on, will start listing destinations until one of them animates a response. At this point, your bags are on the bus, you're safely positioned next to the driver and you're nibbling on a piece of fried plantain you can't remember buying!
If you are lucky enough to plan when you actually board the bus, I suggest waiting until it's pretty much full. Sounds foolish but generally the best seats in the house have not yet been taken. As mentioned previously, the seat next to the driver is comfortable and spacious. Then you have the windscreen that can sit two quite comfortably. Finally, don't underestimate the free falling feeling of sitting on the steps in the entrance of the bus, precarious but refreshing, next to the open door. The only negative to the last option is the buttock bruising, side winding, lane crossing pot hole dodging that’s carefully navigated at full speed by the singing, toothless chafer in a wife beater!
There are two staff members on board the fun ride, (sometimes three, but the third is generally a last minute addition in the shape of an amateur mechanic for the gaffa taped gear box!) You don't have to be too concerned about which stop to get off at, the man who collected your money after you boarded will give you a holler when it's your turn to leave. If you have to change buses, don't worry; you'll be sitting on the second bus with your bags in the hold without having to utter a word.
The cost of the interprovinciales is low. Generally it works out at around a dollar for every hour of travel. The price includes the option of purchasing various food stuffs bought right to you chair, entrance to the on bus petting zoo featuring a wide selection of poultry, banter with the driver and music requests and fantastic views. In return, you may be required to help the elderly and children to dismount the bus, agree wholeheartedly to be welcoming and hospitable when the drivers son visits the UK and smile politely when, without being consulted, you now appear to be engaged the conductor!
The Ruta Del Sol has some fantastic stops, if you want beach side lounging, scuba diving, national parks or eco reserves, the interprovinciales with drop you off, perhaps a little bruised but in high spirits, at your chosen destination. It's fairly rare to find an actual bus stop so you'll quickly realize that standing on the side of the road and waving your arms around generally hails you a bus. This method does mean you'll probably have to board the bus while it's in motion so be prepared to grab the hand that’s offered to you as the bus starts to speed up. One piece of advice, if you are prone to travel sickness, keep a bag handy, the rally driving techniques of your driver will have no sympathy for a queasy stomach!

Dragonfly lands in the Cloud Forest

Thu, 3 Jul 2008 13:51:19 +0100

Nestled in the hills just west of Quito, Mindo has long been a destination for nature enthusiasts, especially for those interested in our flying friends. But more than just for the birds, this sleepy little town in the cloud forest, is becoming an ideal choice for many just wanting a quiet couple of nights away from the city to those hoping to catch a glimpse of Ecuador’s astounding array of birdlife.
Lying roughly two hours west of Quito by bus, Mindo is gaining a reputation as an ideal getaway for foreigners and Ecuadorians alike. Surely adding to this growing reputation is Mindo’s latest addition, The Dragonfly Inn. This guesthouse raises the bar for in-town accommodation, providing a chilled out atmosphere for those hoping to relax after spending the day exploring all that Mindo has to offer, or simply wasting the day away in the beautiful river-side garden.

“Of course being so close to Quito is a big plus for us,” says Dragonfly Inn co-owner Todd Johnson, who owns the Inn with his wife Lorena Morales. “But Mindo is also in a middle of reserve, making it a gem of a location.” That reserve, the Bosque Protector Mindo-Nambillo, provides the incredible backdrop to Mindo and protects the vast wildlife and scenery, while ensuring even modest growth maintains the integrity of its surroundings.
This growth, bolstered by Quito’s own resurgence (Quito was recently named a Top 25 South American destination by Tripadvisor.com), is most evident by the beautifully built Dragonfly and small signs of upgrades and construction just about everywhere in town. And it is in-town that the Dragonfly hopes to leave its mark. “There are a number of high end accommodations just outside of town that are spectacular,” says Johnson. “We wanted to provide a top-quality option right in Mindo, giving guests a chance to really enjoy the town while staying in a place a little more luxurious.”

While matching the comfort of some of the higher priced accommodations outside of town, a stay at The Dragonfly won’t set you back nearly as much, with prices ranging from $20.00 for a single person, to $60.00 for four people (a queen and a bunk bed). This luxury also includes some of the most comfortable beds around, private balconies with hammocks (except #7 – which also happens to be one of the nicest rooms), private bathrooms with hot water and exceptional pressure, and a full service bar. Breakfast is also included in the price of the rooms, and the full service restaurant is expected to be opened soon as final preparations are made to the menu.
The Dragonfly Inn’s location also adds to its ambience as it lies right on the Chaupi River, an ideal and unique spot in town, giving it the feel of seclusion as you relax listening to the water and watching humming birds do their thing. “What we liked about our spot is you can’t miss it as you enter town, and it’s on the river,” commented Johnson. “It makes us unique as we have easy access to all the activities that make Mindo special, but we get to relax in a pretty tranquil setting.”

Those activities include the extensive opportunities for birding, arranged through the Inn, day hiking which can include the numerous waterfalls, butterfly farms and sanctuaries, a canopy zip-line and inner-tubing for the more adventurous, and even a nightly frog concert. Wrapped all together, Mindo becomes a wonderful destination for recent arrivals to Ecuador who are looking to adjust to the altitude and find their legs before more arduous adventures, or those looking for a nice weekend out of the city.
And if you find yourself in Mindo, you won’t be able to miss The Dragonfly Inn, and you won’t want to either.

The Dragonfly Inn
Todd Johnson and Lorena Morales
Reservations – www.dragonflyinn-mindo.com
or 2297 507 / 092 382 189
9 rooms – 1 twin, 4 doubles, 2 triples, 1 quad
Prices - $20-60 US incl. breakfast

The Black Sheep Inn

Fri, 30 May 2008 13:23:11 +0100

What the Black Sheep Inn gives to the Environment, it by no means takes from its guests. The Ecuador Reporter visited one of the nation’s remotest hotels to see what owners and environmentalists Andy and Michelle Hammerman have achieved.

Prior to buying the land for the Inn in 1995, Andy had traveled for ten years; “so I know what travelers want: good beds, good showers, and of course, good location.” What makes The Inn exceptional, however, are it’s brilliantly conceived permaculture structures and environmentally friendly projects.

The Black Sheep Inn’s low Carbon footprint and respect for the environment make it highly deserving of the numerous awards it has received over the years. “A lot of the time, if [businesses] can attract a certain interest by putting ‘eco’ in front of their name, they will,” explains Andy. “Being in a forest or wildlife reserve isn’t really the point. To me the ‘Eco’ status is more to do with the business’s conservation measures.”

Andy and Michelle are keen Permaculturalists, and have mimicked many natural ecosystems to provide for the hotel. The Black Sheep Inn uses dry Composting loos. These have been built to a simple but highly effective formula, to conserve water, minimize greenhouse gas emissions, and (six months down the line), provide fertilizer for the Organic vegetable garden. “This completes a loop which is very Holenistic in terms of how the planet works,” explains Andy, whose crapulative structures are clean, odourless, and don’t require the slightest courage to use. “The idea of taking a glass of fresh, clean water and putting human faeces in it is disgusting to me.”

Although Electricity and water are largely outsourced from the National infrastructure, it is The Black Sheep Inn’s intention to become self sufficient in these areas too. When Andy and Michelle purchased the property, there was only one light bulb on the site. Now, the whole complex is aglow with low energy compact fluorescent lights, and the electricity bill has not risen. Bit by bit, energy inefficient appliances are being phased out. Soon, for example, Andy hopes to replace the fridges with more efficient, gas powered models.

The buildings are made largely from Adobe (unfired clay), straw, and other renewable sources. “The bricks were made on site, and I cut the beams of this building [the main lodge] myself, by hand,” said Andy.

The designs of the rooms combine a rustic Alpine lodge feel (woodstoves, candles, and open floorboards), with slightly quirky streak (the en-suite bathrooms have glass bottles inlaid in concrete sections of the walls). “It isn’t like Quito here: there are no building codes, which makes it easier to build whatever we want.” The views from the hillside complex, of course, are stunning.

Home made food and a fridge full of drinks are available in the lodge, where guests can relax, read and talk around the woodstove. Internet is available for a fee. There is a sauna, hot tub, Badminton court, Zip-Wire and formidable waterslide on site. Your stay will include two free homemade vegetarian meals, yielded by the Inn’s Vegetable garden. The atmosphere is very friendly and guests (who have often travelled extensively to reach the lodge by various means), eat together around one table in the Lodge.

Andy and Michelle’s presence has been a boon to the local community as well. Michelle teaches English in a local school, has set up a library, and gives IT lessons. “The children are excited to learn, but can be slightly nonchalant,” she says. The concept of a broader Western Style education in the community, who manually work their near vertical land to produce their own food, is very new. Tourism was also new to the area when Michelle and Andy started receiving guests at the Inn in 1996, but the budding industry has since slowed an exodus of locals looking for better jobs in cities. “Jobs here are quite sought after,” says Michelle, who employs ten locals on a full time basis. “There are three hotels in the village, so there is a lot of work going around.” The Black Sheep Inn arranges hiking and horseback tours, creating further more jobs for part time local guides. Stunning views aside, the dramatic volcano containing Lake Quilotoa is within hiking distance, as well as swathes of cloud forest. Guides and horses can be arranged at the Inn, and come at a reasonable fee.

Another side of Quito

Thu, 1 May 2008 01:11:32 +0100

The tour agency Happy Gringo is offering a tour of Quito with a twist. The half day tour which will be marketed as the “The Quito Reality Tour” aims to provide a deeper insight into Quito by offering the client a chance to get away from the beaten track (Galapagos, Octavalo Market etc) Happy Gringo founder John Potts explains “there’s so many day tours of Quito being offered where you just get out of a bus at for example the Basillica take a few snaps and get back on the bus. With this tour we’re trying to offer something which shows more of the real living breathing Quito.”

The tour takes in Itchimbia Park with its outstanding vista of Quito. The guide Daniela Acevedo is extremely knowledgeable and gave an interesting presentation on the city pointing out the sights such as the Pancillo and Basillica and explaining there history and significance to Quito. The tour of the Itchimbia Park is a great way to orientate yourself with Quito as you can see the vast majority of the city.

Following the visit to Itchimbia Park the tour visits a chocolate factory which produces Fair Trade certified chocolate. The factory is part of the Yachana organization which also organizes supports and trains local producers in the Amazon. The tour takes in the entire chocolate factory whilst a guide explains the machines and processes in each room. At the end of the tour it’s possible to sample the products produced at the factory and buy them.

The final part of the tour visits typical neighborhood markets in the south of Quito. Here there is a chance to see were your typical ‘Quitenian’ does their shopping and see the amazing variety of indigenous fruits and vegetables that Ecuador produces. The markets are large and include a lot of open air food stalls which serve a wide variety of Sierra cuisine. The color and smells of the market are unique and typically Ecuadorian you won’t see many gringos around these markets.

The tour also offers the option of visiting a range of school’s or daycare centers which are supported by various charities and institutions. These trips offer one the chance to see the projects that are being undertaken in the city to help families in poverty.

Hidden adventures

Thu, 1 May 2008 01:06:27 +0100

Every backpacker, traveller and tourist is looking for an adventure. Most seek the jungle or the Galapagos Islands as an answer but just two hours outside of Quito lies one of Ecuador’s true sights.

Overlooked by many tour operators as an area to send tours and guides, the province of Cotopaxi provides anyone a chance to see the ‘real Ecuador’.

As if transported to a different planet the province is painted with vallies, hills and mountains of the Ecuadorian Andes. Here, in great numbers, live the indigenous people of Ecuador who are some of the most open and kind people you are ever likely to meet. With views that provide miles of the luscious green countryside that make even the most unenthusiastic naturalist become entranced, you could be forgiven asking the question why don’t more people come here?

Capital of the province, Latacunga, until recently didn’t have a hostel in the town meaning that backpackers, were somewhat out priced by the hotels. Hostal Tiana that opened in September 2007 has now provided travellers on a budget with long-overdue affordable accommodation in Ecuador’s hidden treasure.

Meaning ‘homecoming’ in Quichwa, Hostel Tiana is a charming hostel, which is integrated into a courtyard of other business creating a tight nit community feeling. The rooms, both dormitory [$8] and single private accommodation[$13.50] are based on the 1st floor overlooking the courtyard. In the courtyard itself is a hairdresser, tour operator and an Internet service.

The hostel is run by couple Kathrien de Jong and José Luis Buñay who have based the hostel on a ‘homely atmosphere’. “We call the hostel ‘home away from home’ and that was atmosphere we wanted to create,” says Kathrien. “We have found it quite beneficial to have all these other business intergrated with ours here. Travellers tend to use the Internet or have clothes mended as well.”

Marketing promotion manager, Jeroen Advokaat, says, “ The hostel gives out information on the surrounding area that helps tourists. We welcome everyone that comes here to give a rich and full experience of Cotopaxi.”

The town itself hosts large markets that sell everything from fruit to gas ovens, as well as some trendy bars where you can buy cold beers for as little as $1.

The true adventure, however, is away from the town and into the heart of the Andean mountains. Despite having only run Hostel Tiana for six months, the owners have been running Hostal Llullu Llama for two years in the indigenous hamlet of Isavili that has a population of 200. There are no restaurants, bars or shops in the town that creates a unique sentiment around the hostel.

With no TV and very little resembling the western world, the hostel creates an ambience unrivaled to many city hostels. Having been walking all day the resident chef cooks outstanding food that everyone sits and enjoys together over a bottle of wine.

Afterwards, people sit and tell stories about their travels and ideas whilst having the woodstove fire light up their faces as if transported back in time to when hostels used to be mere inns to stay in whilst as backpackers continued their journeys. Walking all day and the entertainment in the evening doesn’t come from a television or bar. But from the people staying there at the time. It is as close to a home feeling as you can get.

“We enjoy everything together, eating, drinking, telling stories and ideas so the mood is very homely,” says Buñay. “Here we are cut off from everyone in the Andes so there is a real family atmosphere.

For Hiking, the area is arguably the best in the country with a range of different walks for all levels of fitness and ability. It is also the only place in Ecuador where a backpacker can walk from hostel to hostel in a day. Professional guides are also on hand to shepherd you through the tricky landscape. Apart from the views and the sights you look into the lives of the indigenous communities of the Sierra. For the majority the people work to feed, often as farmers. Workers sew plots of land that are steeper than a 45˚ angle. Here life is as basic as you get and although these people have nothing to offer, they are incredibly gracious and open to hikers who walk through the village who smile and greet you. On the way you pass a small hamlet called Hualo. There’s a school, a church and acres of land that are used to harvest vegetables. It is a model of how the indigenous live and seeing it first hand is a rich experience.

The hike to Quilatoa Lake is one of the more popular walks for tourists in Ecuador. It is five hours of uphill and the need to be physically and mentally fit for it is essential. It is a ‘no pain no gain’ psyche in this part of the country where despite being on the verge of giving up the higher up you go, the more spectacular the views become.

Jago Mulder, an experienced hiker says, “It’s one of the best experiences I have ever had. Certainly value for money and I’d do it again.”

Hostal Llullu Llama
www.llullullama.com
032814790
Isinlivi – Cotopaxi

Hostal Tiana
www.hostaltiana.com
Latacunga - Cotopaxi

Azuluna is a paradise for backpackers

Wed, 26 Mar 2008 18:27:26 +0000

If travelers think that ‘paradise’ is an unaffordable luxury that cannot be attained with a strict budget, they should think again. The Azuluna Hostel, located a few miles south of the bustling town of Puerto López and between the hamlets of Puerto Rico and Las Tunas, is a luxurious and open-planned hostel costing from $10 per night.
The deserted 10-mile beach stretches along the coastline of cloud forests, with 10-foot waves crashing on the shore. Azuluna, which means “blue moon,” is owned and run by Kléver Albán who founded the hostel in 2000. Albán’s policy is to make the place affordable to everyone, not just people that can spend the money.
“I want everyone to have a rich experience here,” says Albán. “We have a good service at a low price. We don’t want to become one of those places where if you don’t have the money you can’t enjoy this experience.”
The location is idyllic compared to Montañita or Puerto López because the pace of life is slower and more relaxed.
“During the whale mating season [June-September] you can sit here with a cold beer and watch the whales scorch the horizon at sunset,” says Albán. “It is like paradise.”
Because of its proximity to fishing towns, the hostel serves delicious seafood at equally affordable prices ($5.25 3-couses).
Albán’s work, however, stretches beyond the hostel and into the surrounding communities of Puerto Rico and Las Tunas. At the same time that Azuluna was founded, Fundación Reto Internacional was also launched, an organisation that supports the local area. Since its creation, Fundación Reto Internacional has installed a new water pipeline for the residents of Puerto Rico and is currently building a nursery for children in Las Tunas. Albán uses volunteers from overseas as the workforce to build and maintain the projects. Volunteers also help in the local school teaching the children English and other important skills.
In turn, the volunteers stay with families in the villages, providing an additional income into the poverty-stricken area.
Marian Pula, the mother of a family that has worked with the project for three years, says, “It’s really good for everyone. The volunteers learn Spanish and we learn about a different culture as well. The volunteers enjoy and the beach and go out to meet new people in the evening.”
Albán is also keen to promote people’s services in the local villages. “If you want to go horseback riding or surfing we can set that up [through the hostel] using local families that live here with all the profits going to them,” he says.
Albán’s philosophy is to have a hands-on approach to everything, making the hostel a home for the visitors that are staying there. Berti Olotsson, a Swede that came back to Azuluna for a second time, says, “What Klever has is a real amount of empathy. He cares about people and what they say and what they think.”
From Azuluna, travelers have a vast selection of daytrip options, including Isla de la Plata, Puerto López and Agua Blanca. Dubbed as ‘the poor man’s Galapagos’, Isla de la Plata has become a popular tourist destination. It should not, however, be compared to the Galapagos Islands in any way, as expectations will rarely exceed the reality of what visitors can see on the island. Although seeing a blue-footed booby is a practical certainty, the walk around the island is long and hot.
Puerto López, on the other hand, is a busy place and popular with many backpackers. The fish ‘market’ on the beach, where fisherman who spend eight days at sea come in with buckets of fish everyday. The market is on the seafront, making it easy to find for travellers. Along the seafront there are a plethora of juice bars serving stimulating cocktails made with fresh fruit. There are also a three main clubs on the same road with ice cold beer served at $1.
Traveller Aaron Williams says, “I like Puerto López. It’s chill and the people here are really friendly to you. You walk along the beach and everyone says hello to you.”
Twenty-five minutes from Azuluna, Agua Blanca is a locally run community that allows tourists to look into the 3000-year history of an authentic indigenous society through its museum with all of the artifacts being the originals. Two hundred people still live there, and visitors can wander through and talk to the residents.
The community does not receive any support from local or national government, meaning all proceeds go directly to the community.
Local guide, Kleber Panamá says, “Because the community doesn’t pay taxes the state will not support us. That is why we have to charge people ($5) to come here and enjoy Agua Blanca.”
Agua Blanca also hosts the famous lake heated by the sulfur in the ground below. The mud that collects at the bottom is good for the skin and supposedly makes people look younger, resulting in a mud coating sessions for all tourists.
To get to Azuluna from Quito, take a bus to Puerto López. At the terminal, take a ‘taximoto’ to Azuluna ($3).

HOSTERIA AZULUNA
Oficina en Quito: Manuel Lizarzaburo N48-68 y Av. 6 de Diciembre,
Prados del Este, casa 28, Dammer 1
Teléfono: (593) 2 241-0756
info@azuluna-ecuador.com / hostelazuluna@hotmail.com
www.azuluna-ecuador.com

Fundación Reto Internacional
www.fundacionretointernacional.org.ec

The force of the jungle

Sun, 2 Mar 2008 17:09:43 +0000

A vast majority of travelers and backpackers seek an authentic experience – one that is not tainted with commercial interests or filled with cliché tourist traps. Carpedm Adventures, in association with the Secret Garden hostel, offers such an experience. Their four-day excursion into Tena, one of the best cities for ecotourism in Ecuador, allows travelers to learn about indigenous communities in the Oriente while soaking in the beauty of the rainforest. The tour is aptly called Sacha Ursay, a Kichwa name that translates into “the force of the jungle.”
Tours stay in the Sacha Ursay lodge throughout the duration of the trip, excluding one night spent in hammocks in a nearby cave.
“Sleeping in the cave was one of the coolest things I have done on my trip so far,” recent group member Christina Olson says. “Waking up in the morning to the sound of rain while swinging in a hammock under the cover of a massive cave was an unforgettable experience.”
The main lodge is approximately a 30-minute walk from the nearest road and is an exquisite balance between modern comforts and a realistic jungle experience. Group members can enjoy basic necessities like beds, mosquito nets and toilets while appreciating the beauty of the rainforest sans electricity.
“The best part of the trip was the walk through the selva, with the explanations from the shaman,” says backpacker Tristan Bussink, a recent participant in the Sacha Ursay adventure.
Fidel Sergio Tanguila, a community shaman and member of the host family, leads the tour through the jungle terrain, educating the group about everything from the medicinal uses of plants to how anacondas are trapped on the jungle floor. His explanations of shamanism and the spiritual connection between the jungle and the indigenous communities living there are fascinating and empowering.
At the cabaña lodge, activities include tasting Kichwa food such as yucca and traditional teas, as well as learning how to make jewelry from seeds and chocolate from the cacao plant. Although the family does not speak English – Kichwa is their native language but they speak fluent Spanish as well – group members have a unique opportunity to learn about the fascinating Kichwa culture. Most indigenous families in Tena live sustainably off the land, growing plants and respecting the delicate nature of the rainforest. Tour groups are undeniably able to appreciate the tranquility of the towering jungle trees and waterfalls.
The Sacha Ursay tour also includes a canoe ride down the river Napo and a visit to the local wildlife rescue centre, AmaZOOnico. Visitors pay $2 entrance fee into the reserve, which only receives funding through donations and the selling of local crafts. The rescue center plays host to wild animals confiscated by the Ecuadorian government from the black market or donated by individuals who were keeping them as pets. Animals like spider monkeys and ocelots as well as exotic birds like parrots and toucans can be found at the wildlife center, many of them living free in the area or in enclosures depending on safety and health regulations.
Tours will leave feeling like they have truly taken part in an authentic and realistic tour of Tena and the jungle. From the sincere family members and amicable guides, group members are bound to feel like they have been given a genuine glimpse into the indigenous community of Tena.
“It was a perfect mix of culture, exercise, relaxation and fun,” Olson says. “Trips like these make you realize how important these places are and puts a face on the people that depend on them to survive.”

“Sacha Ursay is the signature tour for the Secret Garden hostel,” says Paul Parreño, President of Carpedm Adventures travel agency. Carpedm Adventures has been associated with the Secret Garden hostel since December 2007, but the hostel been working with Rene Shiguango, a licensed jungle guide since mid-2005. Shiguango has been involved in ecotourism for 12 years.
“Originally we were working with a company based in Quito,” says Brad Kidd, general manager of the Secret Garden, a hostel that is celebrating its fifth year in Old Town, Quito. “Rene was definitely a godsend for us and we love the fact that he is so community-oriented.”
The four-day trip costs $135 (not including transportation to Tena), but only $20 commission from each customer goes to the travel agency and the hostel. The other 85% goes back to the indigenous community and the family who hosts the tour groups. The proceeds are spent on everything from food and supplies to the cost of sending the family’s children to a public school in Tena.
Shiguango self-organizes all the tours specifically for Carpedm Adventures and the Secret Garden hostel, which facilitate the tour between their customers and Shiguango’s business. Those who are not staying at the hostel are completely welcome to participate in the tour.
“The tour can be coordinated at a moment’s notice, based on demand.” Kidd says, and although they usually organize tours when three or four people express interest, the trip is much more enjoyable when experienced with a larger group. According to Parreño, Sacha Ursay runs at least once every two weeks, which gives the host family ample time to prepare for new tours.

Tour details

Bus ride from Terminal Terrestre Cumandá, Old Town to Tena costs $6 (5-6 hours)
Tour provides each person with rubber boots and a water proof poncho because of the wet rainforest environment

Other information
Paul Parreño: phone - 2954713, paul@carpedm.ca
José Antepara E4-70 y Los Ríos

Rene Shiguango phone 87291835, sachaursay@yahoo.com
Augusto Rueda y Tena (B Las Playas)

A different way to experience the Galapagos

Tue, 5 Feb 2008 17:16:47 +0000

Galakiwi tour agency takes you to spots and places off the beaten track, giving a full and rich Galapagos experience. Possessing ample local knowledge, the four-year young tour company can take you to the places other agencies don’t know about, including deserted beaches, quiet snorkel points and trendy places to eat or drink.

The tour agency bases itself on the principal that you see the islands both on land and at sea, with a more active itinerary. Many travellers believe that the only way that you can enjoy the Galapagos on a cruise ship, but nothing could be further from the truth.

An eight day tour of the Galapagos is packed from start to finish, with barely a moment to take a breath. From the moment you arrive on the tarmac of the runway to the moment you get back on the plane you are busy swimming, biking, hiking or sightseeing. It is, as Galakiwi refer to it, a ‘First-Class trip’.
Galakiwi bases the trip on small doses of different activities that are designed to push you to your own capacity. In truth, everyone is capable of doing everything on the trip regardless of age or gender, but the challenging aspect is certainly there. No activity is compulsory, yet, essentially, the more you do the more value for money you receive.

Snorkeling

Arguably the most exciting aspect of the tour is the snorkeling, where on your private boat you visit some of the truly great sites. Simple but effective, swimming with the Galapagos sea creatures is thrilling and adrenaline provoking. Below the surface of the water is a hidden world of intriguing aquatic wildlife, one that is unique only to the Galapagos Islands.

Perhaps the creature you are most likely to bump into is the Sea Lion. These precious creatures are similar in many ways to an affectionate Labrador. Their movement on land is comparable to a lazy adolescent lying around on a Sunday afternoon, sleeping away and reluctantly poking up their head when they hear something. But their true quality is beneath the water.

Sea Lions offer no warning when they slide up behind or bolt in front of you. It is natural to jump and be fearful, but in reality all they want to do is play. Once your heartbeat begins to drop you can begin to appreciate their playful movement. With just one flip of its tail, a Sea Lion will whisk its way around you, stretching and arching its back in a sharp and accurate manner. You can get close enough to look these wonderful creatures in the eyes and have your moment with a new friend. The more you relax the more comfortable Sea Lions will be with you.

Galakiwi takes you to some of the most isolated spots throughout the Galapagos Islands. The challenges are inspiring, but not impossible. Kicker Rock, a 150-metre high volcano, made thousands of years ago beneath the seabed and just off the coast of San Cristobal, is without doubt one of these challenges. The rock has been split into two parts, leaving a 10 metre wide ‘hallway’ through the middle. The hallway induces swells of up to 30ft and anyone is forgiven for feeling anxious before jumping in, especially when you are told of what you can see. Although harmless, Galapagos Sharks are found in the gap along with Marine Turtles and Manta Rays. The colours of the fish, coral and conches are also remarkable.

During the long journey to San Cristobal and Isabela the tour stops at Floreana for some of the best snorkeling in the Galapagos. Again, this place is away from any well-known tourist location. Being a natural environment there are no guarantees that you will see everything, yet it is more than possible to witness a school of velvet stingrays. On this particular there were 20 or so swimming together peacefully moving between the rocks searching for food.

In this same stretch of water whales and dolphins also dwell together. On this occasion 200 dolphins suddenly surrounded the boat, in one of the most incredible moments ever seen by a Galakiwi tour.

A lagoon on Isabela is also breathtaking. You are almost certain to see a Marine Turtle and if you are lucky you will be able to swim along side it. Sea creatures are wonderfully gracefully, everything moves in a slow and gentle well-timed manner. Arguably the best example of this is a Tiger Stingray, its' beating wings steady but effective, pushing through the mist of the Pacific seabed in a precise motion.

The hike to Sierra Negra Volcano

In no other place can you see face to face the true force of the planet we live in. There is no other place in the world where a lava stricken plain stretches for miles around, whilst supporting a fantastic amount of flora and fauna. Some parts of the Galapagos are comparable to the surface of the moon, bare and lifeless, but the views are rich and stunning. Everything you see forces your imagination to think about the potential wrath of Mother Nature’s power. The craters, that still steams from the heat directly from the earth’s core, the black glass-like rock, made from hundreds of miles below and the plethora of lava rivers around you. It is a first hand lesson in geology and of how the Galapagos were formed all those centuries ago.

The hike besides the volcano is also breathtaking. The crater is the second largest in the world, measuring a circumference of 25 kilometers. It takes a total of two days to walk the whole way around this magnificient volcano. The volcano is active with the last eruption occuring in 2005, it is said that locals came up to the edge and watched as lava spitted and bubbled out.

Land adventures

Galakiwi tours find peaceful spots away from other tourists, making the whole experience truly special. If there are too many people in one place the Galakiwi team will find another place as, on the whole, they go where other people don’t.

One such place is Carola beach on San Cristobal, one of the first places you visit on the tour that is brilliantly timed introducing you to the Galapagos. There are normally a 100 Sea Lions crashed out on beach and as you look out to sea, with the breeze blowing on face, you think 'now I’ve arrived to the Galapagos'.

Although the Islands are portrayed as hot and barren, at 800m above sea level the climate totally changes to a lush-green and cold environment. It is here, at this altitude, that you find the Giant Tortoise. They have to be seen to be believed. Upon the first sighting your group will shout out in excitement at that huge shell, the paper like skin and the fact that each one weighs the equivalent of two grown men.

In between visits to various museums, including the Charles Darwin Research Station, where you learn how the animals are being protected, you go mountain biking, have fantastic nights out with your group and meet the genuine locals of the islands.

Food and accommodation

It is so easy for tour operators to be complacent and choose the cheaper end of the market for places to stay, or choose the over commercialised hotels and restaurants. This cuts out any chance of meeting the locals or trying the local cuisine. Galakiwi, on the other hand, pull out all the stocks by booking smart places to eat and stay, which give priority to showing the true Galapagos island life. One of the best nights you have as a group is the beach BBQ at Beto’s Bar on Isabela. It is one of the most perfect spots you could ever imagine to wash down the fresh catch with one of the Island's native drinks.

Atmosphere

Tim Cooney and Nick White are the two faces of Galakiwi that direct proceedings. Both from New Zealand, they always make every effort to include everyone on the trip, even if perhaps there are some activities that are a little out of people’s depth. They are a tremendous team, and by having regular meals and meetings together, they create a very close and friendly atmosphere in their respective groups. By the end of the week you will have experienced the most incredible things with your group that subsequently bonds people together in a truly distinctive way. Both in their early 30’s they are exceptionally fit, meaning they take part in everything you do, meaning that you always feel safe in the water or half way up a volcano.

Socially and environmentally responsible

Galakiwi are aware that they have responsibilities that they must carry out during their tours. The majority of cruise ships sail the islands keeping the passengers for the best part on the boat. Subsequently, this means that tourists spend the majority of their money on the boat. Galakiwi, however, assure that the money remains on the Islands. “We use local restaurants, local hotels, local guides, all local services with the majority of money staying in the islands,” says Nick.

Environmentally Galakiwi are aware that the islands are in danger of over population that could ultimately be the death of the popular tourist destination. “We make it clear that people aren’t allowed to touch the animals,” says Nick. “We just want people to watch and observe the animals in their environment.” Our local naturalist guides and tour leaders ensure this.

Marine Turtles are remarkable in this respect. At one time, there were eight people watching a turtle on the seabed with their cameras roughly 10ft below. The turtle, however, was not scared by the human presence and remained calm.

Although one of the more expensive tours, Galakiwi cannot be faulted for the effort it puts in to fulfilling peoples dreams. “I think the difference between us and other tour agencies is that we care a great deal about our customers,” says Nick. “In the four-years that we’ve been doing the tours we haven’t had a single complaint.”

New Year’s on the beach

Tue, 5 Feb 2008 17:12:35 +0000

Montañita, a small town on the Pacific coast of Ecuador, is a surfer’s paradise with an extremely chilled out vibe. The long, clean beach is the perfect spot for catching some rays and cruising the waves.
Many travellers get ‘stuck’ in Montañita, as it's hard to tear yourself away from the tranquil atmosphere, great food and active nightlife.

Montañita was ultimately the perfect destination for the 2007-2008 New Year celebrations. By December 30th the place was transformed and packed with partygoers. Finding a room was difficult to say the least with room prices climbing by 50%. Solo travellers especially struggled to get a room anywhere in the village as beds became highly valuable. Hostel owners ruthlessly wanted to fill every room at the highest price possible. The difficulties, in finding accommodation however, did not dampen the spirits of those ready to party and the streets were full of people dancing the nights away.

The size of Montañita makes for an intimate experience, and bumping into backpackers that you met from other sides of the continent is common. Consequently, the New Year celebrations felt almost like a private festival. The street performers doing all kinds of amazing tricks with fire, balls and stilts added to the carnival atmosphere. Fireworks also featured heavily in the festivities and dodging them became an ‘art form’. The best and safest place to see the fireworks was on the beach, where an amazing display took place at the stroke of midnight.

On New Years Eve most clubs charged an entrance fee of between $10 and $30. This seemed a little expensive considering there was a distinct lack of decent DJ's. Fortunately the party on the beach was free, however the music was kept to salsa and reggaeton. Those in search of house and electro had to pay the price and go to a club. Down on the beach the party continued till the next day making watching and waiting for the sun to rise over the Pacific Ocean horizon.

By the 2nd of January the tranquility had returned to Montañita and many revelers left for new pastures. The season, however, in Montañita is only just beginning so head down there if you fancy some sun, sea and you know what else.

Boards can be rented easily for around $6 an hour and lessons cost as little as $12 for two hours.

Two roads - Podcast

Fri, 11 Jan 2008 21:25:58 +0000

by Robert Frost R
Read by Ross Harper Stewart

TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth; 5

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same, 10

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back. 15

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference. 20

Puerto Lopez

Tue, 8 Jan 2008 18:58:11 +0000

The journey to Puerta Lopez from Quito takes between 8 and 13 hours depending on traffic and conditions. There is the option of travelling overnight or during the day, the day bus gets more crowded and is bumpier while the night bus has a reputation for being dangerous, however it is extremely comfortable and makes only one stop along the way, minimising the opportunity for bandits to board. Arriving in Puerto Lopez at this time of year you will be greeted by muddy roads due to the ongoing rain which has persisted even this far into the year. However the air temperature is warm and the sea is a lovely luke warm temperature ideal for swimming. There are numerous hostals in Puerto Lopez, all cheap and comfortable, however Hostal Sol Inn is highly recommended. Clean and comfortable with affordable prices it has hot showers every day and a lovely seating area where guest invariably gather for a drink in the evenings. Puerto Lopez itself, while home to many fantastic restaurants has Little in the way of nightlife, just a couple of bars which don’t really get busy and a 24 hour off licence located on the main street.

Trips to Isla Plata can easily be organised on the day from various places easily located along the seafront. You can purchase a boat ride and tour of the island as well as park entrance fee valid for 5days for around $50. The boat ride includes snacks and lunch as well as snorkelling. The boat takes about two hours to reach the island, during which time there are opportunities to see humpback whales and dolphins. However the best time for spotting them is during the mating season which is now coming to an end. In the shallows around the island graceful turtles swim around the boat looking for food which is duly provided by the tour operators in the form of various fruits. The turtles put up quite a performance, coming close up to the boat and rolling over on their backs and sticking their inquisitive heads above the water to regard the visitors.

Arriving on the island there is opportunity to use the bathroom and have a drink before setting off on a hike round the island. The group is split in two, one group with an English speaking guide and the other with a Spanish speaking guide. The walk around the island twists up dusty paths and winding stairways at a gentle pace suitable for even the most unfit of travellers. Along the way there is an amazing array of birds to be seen, many of them nesting right on the pathways, enabling a close up view of the birds guarding their precious eggs. Throughout the walk there are blue footed boobies everywhere, strutting around showing off their startlingly blue feet used to attract mates. The males march around like soldiers, lifting their feet high for the females to see. At certain points colonies of red footed boobies can be seen nesting in the trees, occasionally standing up to give a glimpse of their bright red feet. As well as these two types of bird there are vultures living on the island and many varieties of hummingbird. From the clifftops there more opportunities for spotting whales and dolphins out at sea, majestically rising up from the waves. Occasionally some lucky visitors will get to see sealions on their visit to the island, however this is rare as the sealions do not naturally live on the island. The ones which come over are brought by abnormal ocean currents and do not usually survive long on the island.

On the way back the boat stops by some magnificent cliffs and coral reefs where those who wish to can go snorkelling. The tour operators provide snorkel masks with which one can see into the mysterious other world beneath the sea. Exotic fish glide in and out of beautiful coral reefs with the calm occasionally interrupted by small fights between the fish. Lost in the eerie silence beneath the water and the mesmerising views it is possible to float for hours watching the fish. Back on the boat you can dive off the front and soar gracefully deep into the water and swim amongst the fishes. Afterwards, lunch is provided and the boat makes its journey back to Puerto Lopez. During the journey back after a day hiking in the hot sun and swimming the majority of people fall asleep to the gentle rocking of the boat.

Climbing Pichincha

Mon, 7 Jan 2008 20:21:32 +0000

As we monotonously shuffle through our daily routines, it's easy to overlook the quiet giant that provides our quaint city with its picturesque backdrop. Mount Pinchicha not only boasts rolling hills and expansive valleys, it is home to the Teleforico. For just $4.00, the Teleforico cable car will take you up the mountain to a fantastic view of Quito, situating you within the boundaries of several food and beverage establishments to help you aptly enjoy the scenery.
However, for those seeking more than a beer and a nice city view, Pichincha offers a challenging hike up her summit. All people are encouraged to make the trek, regardless of physical prowess, though those seeking to climb to the very top should take the following into consideration:
The hike up Rucu, the closer of Pichincha's two craters, takes about 2 - 2 1/2 hours from the Teleforico drop point and is fairly physically demanding once hikers are forced to step off the well trodden path. The path turns from solid dirt to sand and becomes slightly difficult to maneuver--tennis shoes are alright, but boots are preferable. Once you've surpassed nature's sand trap, the terrain becomes rocky and it's necessary to do a bit of climbing--no equipment is necessary, but gloves are helpful and do be cautious when navigating the rocky ledges. About 10 minutes of climbing on your hands and knees and you realize the burning thighs and sweaty clothes were worth it as you look out onto a spectacular view of Quito.
If you're looking for a more challenging hike and a possible camping trip, there is the younger, more active crater, Guagua Pichincha which stands at an impressive 4794 meters. The hike takes about 6 hours from the Teleforico, but can be broken up over two days if you choose to stay in the refuge at the base of the volcano. From the base, the summit is about a two hour round-trip hike, but worth the trek as you will have views of Quito in addition to the snow-capped Cotopaxi volcano. *Be prepared, the refuge keeper may charge $1 to reach the summit and a night's rest with full use of facilities is $5.
Hiking Tips: Be sure you bring water with you so you can hydrate during the climb in addition to some snacks; fruit or chocolate are always good for an energy boost. LAYER YOUR CLOTHES! It may seem like a beautiful day down on the city streets, but it gets very cold at the top of the mountain and it's important you are dressed appropriately. Hat, gloves, and a jacket are recommended, and don't forget your sunscreen! To avoid having the clouds roll in on your perfect city view, it's best to start early and steer clear of the afternoon shade and rain; the Teleforico starts taking passengers at 9am. If you are staying overnight, remember a warm sleeping bag and food to cook in the refuge's kitchen.
If you're looking for some most likely overdue physical activity or a great photo opportunity, Pichincha invites you to bask in her glory for a moderate price and a priceless memory.